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The Engineering of Vintage Photomatons: The Secret Lens Inside Vintage Photobooths

1/16/2026 ISO 1200 Magazine 0 Comments


The raw, high-contrast aesthetic of a vintage photo booth is instantly recognizable. From the 1920s Photomatons to the booths famously featured in Amélie, these machines produce a look that digital filters often fail to capture authentically. 

The secret lies not just in the chemical paper, but in a specific set of optical choices hidden behind the glass. This post breaks down the lens engineering of these analog machines and how to replicate that nostalgic style today.


The Hidden Periscope: 75mm vs. 35mm


For a long time, the optics inside these cabinets were a mystery. Historical analysis shows that classic American booths favored a 75mm focal length, such as the Wollensak 2. This lens is naturally flattering for portraits, offering a slight telephoto compression. 

However, a 75mm lens requires significant distance from the subject—space that a compact booth didn't have. To solve this, engineers installed a prism or mirror system, mounting the camera at 90 degrees. 

Essentially, the booth was a periscope, allowing for a longer focal path in a small box. In contrast, modern restorations and European styles often switched to a 35mm focal length, frequently using durable Nikon lenses. 

This wider angle allowed the camera to face the subject directly without complex mirrors, fitting into cabinets as shallow as 80cm. The 35mm creates a slightly more distorted, intimate, and "in-your-face" look that has become synonymous with the photo booth vibe.

 

Mastering the "Anti-Bokeh" Look


Recreating this aesthetic requires doing the opposite of modern portrait trends. Instead of chasing creamy backgrounds and "bokeh balls," the goal is absolute sharpness. Photo booths are designed to keep everything in focus, regardless of how much the subject moves. To achieve this at home:
  • Stop Down: Set your aperture to at least f/4.5 or f/5.6. You want a deep depth of field where the nose, eyes, and ears are all tack sharp.
  • Lighting: Use a hard flash placed as close to the lens axis as possible. This mimics the flat, direct strobe of the booth.
  • Proximity: Place a white background just 20 centimeters behind the subject. This eliminates depth and creates that characteristic shadow halo.
  • The Crop: Shoot horizontally and crop the center square. This matches the optical framing of the original film strips better than shooting vertically.
Images and video via Mathieu Stern

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